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Wednesday, May 12, 2021

An Eternal Blending

An interesting facet of living in "the borderlands" and in an area where three distinct cultures -- Mexican, U.S., and Native American -- existed, is to see the blending of those cultures into a new, hybrid culture.

The "ghost cow"  (<--link) of a previous post stands right outside the cemetery in Old Mesilla. It's a fitting sentinel, as it prepares the visitor for the juxtaposition of beliefs within.

In the cemetery for members of the Basilica of San Albino, the strong Mexican Catholic culture is evident.  Most headstones are in Spanish, and many are extremely modest, yet all richly illustrate the deep faith of the "gente humilde," the humble folk.

san albino cemetery in the blazing sun


Without romanticizing poverty and lives impacted by prejudice, I will say that whenever I have been lucky enough to interact with such individuals, I have been touched. These are the people who have what I call "natural class" and sweet, clear, glass-like hearts.

While our house here was being built, the first time I lived in Las Cruces, I rented an extremely modest house of perhaps 600 square feet in a very tumbledown neighborhood. One next-door neighbor was handicapped with scleroderma and extremely poor, yet she loved to invite me over for coffee in thanks for rides to church. These dear kaffee klatches consisted of a cup of Taster's Choice (because I was company), and a carefully split flour tortilla, with me somehow always handed "the big half." A little saucer of cinnamon sugar was placed between us, and the rolled-up halves were to be stuck in the mixture with each bite. She would barely touch her tortilla to the sugar, eager for me to have the lion's share. Every movement caused this gracious lady pain, yet move she did, to fuss over me. And I have yet to see the match of her hospitality.

san albino graveyard mesilla new mexico


But back to the graveyard. Doesn't that sound strange? Who says that? The ghosts, as the sun nears rising? "Ah, back to the graveyard, my fellow spirits. Day is nigh." I imagine these spirits never being into mischief, but gathering peacefully at the Basilica to say the Rosary for their brethren.

I do have to smile at the designation "Basilica." It was actually declared a "minor Basilica," after much imploring, but they don't use the "minor" part of the name. I do not think God frowns at such an innocent pride.
 
shrine grave


Mexican tradition has joined with some uniquely U.S. aspects in the San Albino cemetery. There are no typical restrictions of a cemetery here, and free reign is given to the families, yielding a gravesite where a four-foot Virgen de Guadalupe stands guard over silk flowers and little angels playing with pretty pieces of glass. A huge "wall rosary" has been draped on the headstone, and the gravesite has been neatly tiled. The idea of family is taken very seriously here. La familia is tantamount. When I first saw this grave, I thought it had plaster squirrels on it, due to poor eyesight. But no, they are angels with arched wings. But squirrels would not have been a surprise.

If you'll excuse a pun, the grave poverty of this area shows in this cemetery. There is no room for strict codes here.

Virgen de Guadalupe at san albino graveside


Nearby, a patch of outdoor carpet sets a comfortable tone. The yellow-and-green color scheme of a devoted John Deere Tractor fan is seen.
 
outdoor carpet and john deere theme of grave


A few yards away, a grave is decorated with "calaveras" (skulls), spiders, angels, and crosses intermingling freely. Instead of changing out seasonal decor, some choose to just keep adding more throughout the year.

old world meets new san albino cemetery


Pocket rosaries are everywhere, often simply laid at the base of the crosses. There are many homemade wooden crosses marking graves, with handpainted names and nicknames on them.

simple graves at san albino



Some graves have all wording worn off. Nothing remains but a simple wish it be remembered that here lies a Christian. 

simple worn headstone



So many of the old names are here, the gentle, devout settlers of the region, the original farmers of the valley. These are the same names you will see on the war monuments, including so many on the monuments devoted to those who were on the Bataan Death March, which hit New Mexico very strongly. The people of the area are very patriotic.

I hope these pictures from a desert cemetery have not depressed you, but have cheered you with the knowledge that God has sprinkled the "humble people" among us like gems among the dust.

Kind regards,

Olde Dame Holly






18 comments :

  1. I always love visiting cemeteries, but this was one of very few where there are no restrictions placed on the graves. In many cities, you aren't allowed to leave flowers on a grave site more than five days after a holiday. You are not allowed to leave them any other time unless they are in dedicated vases that are part of the headstone. This was a joy to read. It's amazing how the most poverty stricken among us seem to be the most willing to share. I loved the story of your neighbor. It spoke to me. And so did you, dear.

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  2. Seems so out of place to not have the green grass nicely mowed every where like we do here. We have extremely old cemeteries here and I see one on my walk most days that has people from the 1700's but still grassed over. Most stones here are granite as we are the granite state.
    Cathy

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  3. I would love to visit this cemetery and your town. since I don't travel it will not happen, but i did visit through your story and photos. old cemetery's are my thing, i don't care for the new modern where every thing is flat and to be driver over by tractors cutting grass, with rules and regulations. enjoyed your memories

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  4. The old graveyards make you feel humble but uplifted in a way too. How interesting to see all of these well kept graves and tributes to loved ones. Thanks for sharing this! Enjoy your day!

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  5. I have always thought that my trips to the cemetery were peaceful ones visiting loved ones. I first started going with my Dad when I was a young child to see his parents, and he always taught me to walk around the graves and always have respect for the grounds. It gave us a chance to talk and get to know each other too. When my friend's sister died, the mom adorned her grave with many items and always kept it up so nicely. It's so nice that they have statues and angels and flowers here, but I also like the simple one with only the Cross on its stone. It is interesting when we visit the cemetery to see what other people have placed on their loved ones graves.

    Have a good rest of the week, Holly.

    ~Sheri

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  6. Not depressing at all! In fact I find it rather uplifting that such displays are not frowned upon, let alone banned. What I find depressing is family members being scandalized when people started leaving those little solar LED-on-a-stick yard decorations. And those who wanted to spray and mow a rural no longer active cemetery that is one of the last patches of undisturbed native prairie in Iowa. The outrage some had when a can of beer was left at the stone of a young soldier that was killed in one of the gulf wars - turns out it was left by a troop mate and childhood friend, IIRC, who stopped to have a nice long chat. So long as it's not going to explode, pollute, or make too much noise, it's all good to me. Then again, I'm not the one doing the mowing, trimming, and picking up what's been blown away by the wind :-)

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  7. I loved this tour of the graveyard! I had to chuckle about the John Deere comment. My late hubby was a JD fan. I think he would have liked a tractor on his headstone. I find all of the unique decorations very touching and am glad they have the freedom to do what is meaningful to them and within their financial means. Thanks for sharing this! :)

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  8. I find most cemeteries to be peaceful places. When I go to visit loved ones at a cemetery I often take a few moments for myself to just meditate and enjoy the calm. This is a lovely cemetery you have chosen to share with us.

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  9. I've enjoyed reading all the comments and the posting itself. I remember too going with my parents and being told to not walk on the headstones. I rather like the old ones, with the statues and old trees, and find the small town ones, charming and peaceful. As my mother used to tell me, it's not the dead we should fear, it is the living. So true, now more than ever. Your pictures are lovely, and it would be nice if we could decorate as we choose for our family plots.

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  10. I've enjoyed reading all the comments and the posting itself. I remember too going with my parents and being told to not walk on the headstones. I rather like the old ones, with the statues and old trees, and find the small town ones, charming and peaceful. As my mother used to tell me, it's not the dead we should fear, it is the living. So true, now more than ever. Your pictures are lovely, and it would be nice if we could decorate as we choose for our family plots.

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  11. So different than cemeteries in Ohio.
    Thank you for taking the time to share.

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  12. A very unique cemetery to be sure. It is good that people are allowed to express their grief and memories in ways that are meaningful to them. I love to visit old cemeteries and read the inscriptions on the tombstones. It is a place where loved ones feel a sense of "connection" with their departed one, and they should feel the freedom to remember them with love and respect. Thank you for sharing this with us. I would miss seeing some green grass, however. But a desert land has its limitations.

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  13. This is a lovely tribute to the spirit of the place.

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  14. So glad to see some cemeteries are able to pay tribute to their families. Here we are only allowed one flower and grave blanket in the Winter if you choose to. Janice

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  15. Depressing? Not at all! I enjoyed seeing the pictures and reading about this unique cemetery. I like that people have the freedom to decorate their loved ones graves as they please. No strict restrictions.

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  16. What a beautiful place - such unusual headstones - here in UK a carved plain stone angel is about as unusual as it gets. I like the way people are allowed to express themselves, as it should be.

    I had not heard of the Bataan Death March, and so looked it up. Words fail me as to the treatment handed out. Those poor men (and their families, for the ones who didn't return).

    What wonderful neighbours you lived close to. Special people, however poor, willing to share their last crust.

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  17. What a sweet memory of your coffee klach neighbor.

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  18. Graveyards are blessed places, with all those souls awaiting the Resurrection. I also like to visit them, but have never been to one like this. It's inspiring to see how people have expressed their love and faith in creative ways. Thank you for the tour. I loved your comment about the spirits: "I imagine these spirits never being into mischief, but gathering peacefully at the Basilica to say the Rosary for their brethren."

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